hebel. today · 10 November 202636 / 74

Food · Culinary Science

Thermal ageing transforms celeriac while spatchcocking balances poultry heat

Sam Cooper treats celeriac to nine days of low-temperature heating, a process he terms thermal ageing, which triggers the Maillard reaction to produce melanoidins and a molasses-like sweetness. As the celeriac heats, fructans break…

Sam Cooper treats celeriac to nine days of low-temperature heating, a process he terms thermal ageing, which triggers the Maillard reaction to produce melanoidins and a molasses-like sweetness (Sam Cooper from The Black Butter Club). As the celeriac heats, fructans break down into free fructose, while the compound furaneol develops to provide distinct caramel notes (Sam Cooper from The Black Butter Club). Simultaneously, heat degrades pectin within the cell walls, causing the interior to soften while the exterior maintains its shape. Rick Martinez flattens poultry by removing the backbone, a technique that positions thick breast meat in the center of a pan to cook gently while the legs sit at the perimeter to reach higher temperatures (Rick Martinez from Sazón). This method reduces total roasting time by approximately one hour for a turkey.

  • Achiote paste, derived from annatto seeds, provides both a deep red-orange color and earthy flavor to poultry glazes (Rick Martinez from Sazón).
  • Gas grills configured for indirect heat serve as functional secondary ovens, provided the cook rotates the pan to ensure even browning (Rick Martinez from Sazón).

Try today · 20 min

Spatchcock a whole chicken to prepare it for even roasting.

Use heavy-duty kitchen shears to cut along both sides of the backbone.

You need

  • 1 whole chicken (3-4 pounds)
  • Kitchen shears

Steps

  1. Place the chicken breast-side down on a cutting board.
  2. Cut along one side of the backbone from tail to neck.
  3. Repeat the cut on the other side of the backbone to remove it entirely.
  4. Turn the chicken over to be breast-side up.
  5. Press firmly on the center of the breastbone until it cracks and the bird lies flat.

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Sources

  1. Sam Cooper, The Black Butter Club on hebel. → ✎ Written by a personExplains the chemical basis of thermal ageing in celeriac through the Maillard reaction and sugar concentration.

  2. Rick Martinez, Sazón on hebel. → ✎ Written by a personProvides a specific glaze recipe using guajillo chiles and achiote for spatchcocked chicken.

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